Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Gear Review: Iridium's GO! Satellite Device

Recently the American Mountain Guides Association published a review I did of the Iridium GO! Satellite device, a cool gadget that turns your smartphone into a sat phone, and does a lot more too.
Read the review here:

Sunday, March 22, 2015

Boot Camp: A Month of Skiing and Ice Climbing in the San Juans

 Over the past month, I have had the opportunity to get to know a new and unique mountain range, the Northern San Juans in Southwestern Colorado.  The ice climbing mecca of Ouray, and the well known ski destinations of Telluride and Red Mountain Pass are here, and they are what we came to experience.

Ian Havlick, having fun on the IIC.

The main objective of the trip was continuing education, and further steps towards AMGA certification in the Alpine and Ski disciplines.  So during this month, I scheduled an AIARE Level 2 Avalanche course, the AMGA Ice Instructor Course, as well as the AMGA Ski Guide Course, meaning a total of 21 days of field-based guide training.  

 The San Juans are known for their volatile and dynamic snowpack, and so provided an active classroom during the AIARE course.  During the week following the course, the snowpack in the San Juans was roughly doubled, providing conditions for an impressive natural avalanche cycle.

The real deal.  Half mile crown on Red Mt. 2.

The Stairway

Unfortunately, this high avalanche danger coincided with the beginning of the AMGA Ice program, meaning that a lot of beautiful long backcountry ice routes (which I was lucky enough to sample some of before the course) would be off-limits.  We were able to use local venues to complete the course, however, and at least made for short commutes in the mornings.

The one and only Whorehouse Hoses, Eureka CO

Somewhere along the Stairway to Heaven, Eureka CO

Mid pitch on the Whorehouse
With the Ice Instructor Course complete, I had 8 days with which to hang out, relax, go to the desert and get out of mountain boots for a bit.  That all changed with another big storm surge right after the course, and forced Jen and I to stay in Ouray and keep climbing ice, the only activity besides hot springs which was not affected by the snow.

Booting on Bald Mt.

Before too long though, it was time to begin the AMGA Ski Guide Course, which had a mechanized component in Telluride, and the longer backcountry touring based section held on Red Mountain Pass. Luckily I could stay based in Ouray, and make short commutes to the BC access points easily.

One of many peaks climbed and skied.

Over the course we received lots of valuable instruction and mentorship in the discipline of guided backcountry ski mountaineering.  With the persistent instabilities caused by the recent storms we were forced to make conservative route and terrain choices, but these complexities also forced thoughtful decision making and made for a good learning environment.

Our groups found lots of good snow, and some amazing snow, and coming from a drought season in California, I easily made the best turns of the season during the course.

Mineral Basin

We concluded the program with a hut based component, held on the other side of the Pass, which gave us access to some incredible terrain above treelike with lots of options for good, steep skiing.

Now, with the month of heavy duty continuing ed over, back in the Eastern Sierra, winter seems like it is over.  It is very springlike here, with the snow line rising and the temps warming, it will be alpine climbing in the High Sierra before too long.  Hope to see you out there!


A big thanks is due to Mammut, who though their continued support of the AMGA and guiding education, provided me with a full-tuition scholarship to attend the Ski Guide Course.  Look out for a video documenting the course soon.

Monday, January 12, 2015

Sierra Skiers Anonymous: A 12 Step Program for Those Believing California Still Has a Winter Season.

OK, so the title may seem like all doom and gloom.  But I am sure there are many of you out there, myself included, who bought new powder skis this year to appease the fickle Snow Gods.  And we have paid for our sacrifice with core shots, ripped out edges, and combat skiing galore, even if never leaving the ski area boundary!

Not that skiing has been all bad, there have been some standout days on the ski hill, and the spring corn cycle has been kind of fun, but without much new snowfall to recharge the mountain, I am investing my energy this winter into what IS good, namely the ice and rock climbing, skate skiing and mountain biking.

Recently converted to the dark side of spandex and fanny packs, skate skiing has quickly become my workout of choice.  It is hard to imagine another activity which simultaneously makes every muscle in your body want to explode.  And you can do it with less than a foot of snow on the ground! 

The mountain biking has also been incredible this winter- Lower Rock Creek has been riding with a crispness and tackiness that we could only dream of in the summertime.  With temperatures like what we have been experiencing, one can imagine it will only continue until it snows again.  The road riding is also fantastic, with empty highways and warm breezes, bike touring the Eastside wounds pretty good right now.

But I think that the real standout for me has been the decent condition of our local ice climbing despite these wild temperature fluctuations.  Sure, Main Wall in Lee Vining could be filled in, or Roadside or whatever, but that just won't be happening until it gets cold again.  Until then, getting out at least a couple times per week, I have been able to find fun, climbable ice and had a great time.  

Ian follows up a long pitch in Parker Canyon

Ian leads another great pitch at Parker

Me leading one of the steeper pitches

"Worth the 3 hr. approach!"

The North Gully (Horsetail Falls) in good shape

Leading the first pitch of the N. Gully

Wending through bulges and pillars, midway up the route
 So we can keep making the weather the only topic of conversation, and continue trying to fit square pegs in round holes, but the first step to actually enjoying this winter is accepting that there is a higher power.  And this higher power doesn't have winter as we know it in mind for us, at least not yet, so we better just start learning again how to enjoy what we do have.

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Highlights from RockTober

In the many moons that have passed since climbing Arrow Peak, the adventures have not stopped; in fact, they have multiplied, and so despite neglecting to update this blog I can assure you that there has been hardly a wasted moment in these past few months.

September was another big work month, but I managed to get out with Jen and attempt a kind of mountain ramble that looks good on paper but once you are in the middle of executing it, feels a little bit less like such a great idea.  We sought to traverse the northern section of the Sierra's Great Western Divide, from Midway to North Guard, over 7 days, through miles of complicated alpine rock terrain and over the many summits which comprise this distinct landmark.  We did not realize how time consuming and complicated this travel would actually be, over seemingly infinite fields of loose and unstable talus.  We did not succeed in the mission, but had an amazing time to ourselves in the remote mountains, and that is what we will remember.

As September turned into October, our thoughts drifted away from the summer season in the alpine to the red rock of the Desert Southwest.  With the Four Wheel Camper installed and packed with all sorts of gear, we drove off into the desert.  Our first port of call was Zion NP, where we climbed a bit, but put most of our energy towards the canyoneering adventures which Zion is famous for.  Birch Hollow into Orderville Canyon is a classic moderate technical canyon, and it did not disappoint.  

From the wet and wild canyons, we drove desolate stretches of highway, passing through Capitol Reef NP and the Colorado River on our way to the crack climber's Mecca known as Indian Creek.  Spending a week in the Creek is not enough, but it was fun to camp and climb with a group of friends both old and new.

The road called us back though, and so we heeded its call, traveling on to visit some of the Ancestral Pueblo dwellings at Mesa Verde NP, a long and strange drive through the Navajo Nation, and then back to Zion for one more canyon.

Descending Middle Echo Canyon was a great short day of rappels into deep pools, swimming in cold water and generally feeling like little kids at a water park.  Did I mention the cold water?!

And just like that, our desert vacation had to come to an end- as I flew down to Patagonia for a month of work just a few days later.  Now that I am back from a successful trip down south, the snow is falling here in Mammoth and the winter looks promising, though I am already looking forward to the spring trip back out to the Southwest!

Monday, August 25, 2014

Arrow Peak: Worth the price of admission.

You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.” 
-Rene Daumal

I will freely admit that when I am not working, I take a much more relaxed approach to route planning. Pack, drive to trailhead, start hiking- how bad could it be?  Well, it seems like my steady diet of high elevation trailheads and "casual" 3-4,000 ft. approaches has made me soft.

Enter Taboose Pass.  After leaving Mammoth at around 6:30 (too late), it was already 90 degrees at the trailhead!  What?!  Beginning almost at the floor of the Owens Valley, Taboose will get you sweating right out of the gate, and spinning your wheels at the same time thanks to steep switchbacks of deep sand.  Thank God for the guy who dreamt up sun-umbrellas.

After some hours of grinding our gears up the 6,200ft of elevation which separated us from the Pass, we crested over into the Sierra High Country and immediately forgot the past difficulties.  Feasting our eyes on such a massive view was humbling, and inspiring.  We could see our intended camp along Bench Lake and high above the Muro Blanco and so after a short lunch we hoofed it down the last 4 and a half miles to camp.  Arrow Peak dominates the view from Taboose, as it towers over Bench Lake and sits in between some of the highest concentration of high peaks in the range.

After 13 miles and quite a bit of elevation change, we enjoyed a well deserved break, fishing the lake and sipping on small batch bourbon.  Our route up Arrow would wait for us.

In the morning we awoke and while the NE Spur of the peak, first ascended by Walter Starr Jr. had been my first choice, it looked a bit too intimidating for Jen to get excited about, especially as we had forgone the rope or even helmets.  So the South Face route would be our path, and we wended through forests, marshy lakes and up through the benches of Arrow Pass to reach the route.
The route consisted of some 1,000ft of loose sand and rock; not the highest quality ascent but a means to an end for sure.

Then as soon as the summit of Arrow is reached, along a slender ridge of granite fins, the views become overwhelming.  All you can see are high mountains, from Mount Goddard to Whitney; the Palisades, Lakes Basin, Clarence King and Gardiner as well as the Western Peaks in the far corners of Sequoia and Kings Parks.  I was impressed to the point of being over saturated by such an immense sight.  But as Daumal says, we can't stay on top forever, and the allure of swimming in the deep blue waters below was too appealing.

The next day, hiking out without the wind blasting us in the face as it had when we ascended, we said farewell to the majesty of the high peaks and open country, and then reacquainted ourselves with our old friend, Taboose.  Climbing the 6,200 ft suddenly felt a whole lot more fun, as the ankles and knees started to get angry.  But after reaching the sandy flats which took us back to the car, and eventually to ice cream and beer, it started to feel worth it.  Worth it because of knowing now how much more there is out there in this range to see and experience.


Monday, July 14, 2014

Rocking out in the High Sierra

 It is now the middle of July, and the summer guiding season is in full swing.  Really, it has felt pretty full on since May, and doesn't seem like there will be any let up until October.  But I'm not complaining- not when work gets to take me to such rare and interesting places, with new friends and old.
After the last post covering the week spent up in the Palisades things have been hectic- a short trip up to Washington, an AMGA Alpine Course in the Tetons, and then right back to the Sierra.
The trips have been a lot of fun so far though- lots of rock guiding work and alpine rock, allowing me to use and figure out how to best integrate the new information gained through the alpine course into my own guiding.

Here are a couple of the trips as seen through the lens during the past month:

The Tetons, from my camp at Shadow Mt.  The weather was not super cooperative while the course was being held...

But we still managed to get some objectives done.  Josh Jackson short ropes Ron Paproski on Disappointment Pk.

Now back to the Sierra, Alex and Sarah came up for an advanced rock and mountain skills camp.

Here Alex takes the sharp end on Crystal Crag's North Arete

After Alex and Sarah took off it was time to shift gears to begin a 5 day Lead Climber program for the Navy SEALS, and by the last day they were swapping leads up some of the classic climbs in the area looking like they had been doing it for years!
Neil takes the lead up Crystal Crag 

Rappelling off of alpine terrain as the thunder started booming!
Neil the SEAL puts on his game face when learning terrain belays!

The day the SEAL program ended I had to get down to Big Pine to meet up with Matt and Marty, who had big designs on some higher level alpine rock climbing up on Temple Crag.  We hiked in in the early evening shade and set up a camp next to the aqua blue Second Lake.  The next morning we were up early and climbed the ultra-classic Venusian Blind Arete (5.7 1,500ft).

Matt and Marty, looking stoked, somewhere mid route

Finally on top of the route, but still a ways to go to the summit!
Now with a couple days off to relax and recalibrate, I get to look forward with more of the same!  Whitney's East Butress, the Fishhook Arete on Russell, and local rock climbing are what I get to look forward over the next couple weeks.