Showing posts with label Rock Climbing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rock Climbing. Show all posts

Thursday, April 21, 2016

Five Reasons to Hire a Guide


While many of us are experiential learners who have developed their outdoor skills through trial and error over many trips, there are many benefits from using a professional guide to help you turn your dream adventure into a reality. While there are certainly numerous reasons to seek professional guidance to safely “learn the ropes”, I will highlight five of the top reasons to hire a mountain guide.

1. Local terrain knowledge.
           
So you just saved up all your vacation time from the past year to be able to take a trip to climb a peak in a mountain range you have never visited. Do you want to spend half of your trip wondering if you are off-route or inadvertently in dangerous terrain? Snow, glacier conditions and avalanche conditions change rapidly and dynamically- going with someone who has intimate knowledge of your route in a variety of conditions will keep you safer and perhaps more successful.

2. Ability to match your ability and goals to a trip.

Whether you are a casual climber or hiker who wants to do a unique and fun trip once a year, or a keen mountain climber looking to develop skill sets to be more self-reliant, working closely with a professional guide can help you customize your mountain experience. Guides carefully match the challenge of a route with the desired outcomes of their guests to deliver the best education or experiential outcome.

3. Experience in managing groups in the mountains.

Sure, you just joined a local Meet Up style group that offers climbing trips. But what kind of qualifications do these trip leaders have, and how much responsibility do they have for you if something happens? Signing up for a group trip through a guide service will ensure safe and prudent group sizes, and attention to risk management so that all participants have their needs met. Plus, you usually eat a whole lot better on guided trips!

4. Qualifications and certifications.

Mountain climbing and backcountry adventuring can already be a dangerous activity, so seek out a guide who has passed formal internationally recognized exams through the American Mountain Guiding Association (AMGA). The long and rigorous process to become a certified guide involved not only guiding exams and professional development courses, but also wilderness medical training and attention to teaching outdoor-based curriculum.

5. You just want to get out and hike or climb, but can’t find a partner!

It can be frustrating to have to deal with schedule conflicts, partners who bail, and friends who just aren’t interested in another one of your half-cocked trip plans, so hiring a guide can take away a lot of the stress of planning a trip. Guide services work with your schedule, deal with the logistics and permits, and get everything lined up so that you get to show up and have fun without all the hassle of finding an appropriate partner.

Friday, February 8, 2013

Crystal Crag West Couloir















A couple weeks ago I got to guide a really cool trip for SMC- the West Couloir to the South Ridge of Crystal Crag.  I climbed with Alex Caillat, who I have done a bunch of stuff with over the past year (Mountain Madness in the Palisades!) and Nayan Savla, his friend from Santa Barbara.  Both are keen to get into ice and mixed climbing so we first spent 2 days working on ice skills in Lee Vining Canyon.

Crystal Crag is a great climb, summer or winter; the only catch when you climb it in winter is that you need to ski approx. 10 miles round trip to make it happen!



































So we got Alex and Nayan set up with AT gear and got skiing out of Twin Lakes by 6:30am.  
The day was a perfect warm and sunny day, so in no time were we booting up to begin the climbing below the West Couloir.  The snow conditions were less than ideal, with 16" of loose sugary facets sitting on top of the older crust.  This made for slow going and interesting mixed climbing through the narrow chokes up higher, but Alex and Nayan both cruised through once I got the rope up there.
After we hit the ridge the climbing became much more like the classic Sierra 4th class ridges we all love, and we hung out on the summit for a bit before picking our way down the West Face, which unfortunately also was a bit hairy with all the loose unconsolidated snow.  
A little bit of survival skiing down to Crystal Lake and then through the Lake George Gully got us back to the cars by 7pm, leaving the crux of the day for Alex and Nayan, who still had to drive back to SB!  
Enjoy the pics, courtesy Nayan Savla.














Thursday, November 8, 2012

RocTober 2012!

So I hate beginning blog posts by saying "it has been a long time since the last post, so here you are...", but DAMN!  I have been so busy with work and play since the last post about Angel Wings that I have had scarcely a moment to update Life in the Vertical.  So with that said, here you are, the latest installments of semi-nomadic dirtbag ramblings...

September was rough; 4 trips up Mount Whitney, 3 of those with our group being the only ones up there, a rarity for sure. Then at the beginning of October I drove out to the climbing and casino mecca of the West, Red Rock Canyon near Las Vegas, NV with Jen in order to climb a bunch and train for my upcoming AMGA Rock Guide Course and Aspirant Exam.

I hadn't climbed in Red Rock for 5 or 6 years, so it was interesting to get used to sandstone climbing again after spending so much time on granite.  There is definitely a learning curve to the soft stone, and becoming comfortable with protecting the thin patina face climbing with thin wires is an art to be sure.  We got on some classic routes such as Triassic Sands, Wholesome Fullback, the Fox, Y2k and Frigid Air Buttress before deciding we needed a break before my course.
Jen seconds the first pitch of Wholesome Fullback














Since we were in Vegas, what better way to relax than to take in some of the nightlife?  Jen had gotten us amazing tickets to Cirque du Soleil's Mystere show, and if you have't seen a Cirque show, I can only say,"what are you waiting for?!"  These amazing acrobats make us climbers look like couch potatoes!  And the entertainment of people watching on the Strip is pretty hard to beat too!

Mount Wilson and Cactus Flower Tower as we approached to climb Cinnamon Hedgehog on CFT.














Jen took off the next day and I got ready for my RGC- 10 days of guiding assignments, examination, and evaluation.  A couple of the days were rained out, which was perhaps a blessing in disguise, since the rest of the course would prove to be pretty draining.  We climbed some excellent routes, learned a lot, and got a lot of feedback to enhance our guiding and to get us ready for the next steps in the AMGA programs.  I am happy to say that I passed my Aspirant Exam and am now signed up for my final Rock Guide Exam in April.

I went back to Mammoth for 6 days to relax, not think about climbing, and started packing for a 2 week stint in the desert....